COE 33. This clear, true red transparent strikes easily by itself in the flame and doesn't go livery. Exceptionally easy to use! A slow-striking version (Light Elvis) and a darker version for thin applications (Dark Elvis) are also available.
COE 33. Aka Black Elvis. This is a very dark, dense version of the easy-striking Red Elvis. In thick applications looks opaque. Best used where a very strong red is needed for thin or blown applications.
Dense Slyme 3 is the choice when you want your Slyme to look less transparent. If, for example, you are blowing out your Slyme so thin that you lose the rich color, then Dense will look more like Slyme in that application. Or if you want to vac-stack it and have it look like Slyme after being pulled down. Or if you just want a milkier, less transparent look, then Dense Slyme 3 is the one you want. Dense Slyme can range from translucent to a milky semi-opaque, depending on how you work it, but is seldom fully-transparent. Work cooler to keep Slyme more opaque, with a soft reducing flame. This also prevents reboil and scumming. Always work Slymes in a REDUCING FLAME, especially when it's cold.
The opaque Candy colors, like Pink Cadillac, prefer a soft, enveloping flame. While they are not really boily, they do have some air in them which can mimic boil, especially when heated hard and fast. For those of you on sharp and forceful torches in particular we suggest warming in the upper flame before working slowly and allowing the occasional larger air bubbles to escape as you work. While many people have great success with these colors, the opaque Candy color line is known to have a slightly higher COE; please test in your application. Laying over clear and then sculpting is NOT recommended.
COE 33. New TAG Wisteria is far smoother than the earlier batches. This is a very pretty opaque blueish-purple glass: WYSIWYG. Rods are slightly rough, but as you can see in the image, they smooth right out when heated. Work in any atmosphere
This is a transparent aventurine sapphire blue with big, glittery dichro-like sparkles. Great for layering. The usual cautions against long, hot garaging technically apply since this is an aventurine color, however it is highly stable in implosions, encasements, and virtually any application.
Heavy Blue Stardust Adventurine - Trautman - COE 33
$65.00 per POUND
$5.08 per OZ
Transparent darker blue aventurine with big, glittery dichro-like sparkles. Great for layering or backing, also mixes down with other colors to add sparkle. Heavy Blue Stardust is darker blue sapphire with a higher density of sparkle, than the regular Blue Stardust. The usual cautions against long, hot garaging technically apply since this is an aventurine color, however it is highly stable in implosions and encasements.
Mighty Moss features Paulís newer aventurine technology, which has greatly improved the stability of glitter boro colors. This glass is a very densely saturated aventurine with large, dichro-like sparkles. Mighty Moss may be safely imploded into marbles, within reason, meaning you should limit the time you "garage" your work, do not go above 1050 in the anneal cycle, and anneal as short a time as you can for the size of the piece. Not sensitive to flame atmosphere, but reduction should be avoided on aventurines before implosion.
Just as the name implies, Orange Elvis is a mix of the self-striking Red Elvis and the lightly reactive amber/purple type Yellow Elvis. This makes it an easy-strike color that will flame strike a lighter reddish orange, or can be brought back to clear in the flame and then kiln strike for a darker reddish-orange look. Layer over clear to make a more true transparent orange. Oxy flames bring out brighter tones, reduction gives softer earthier colors due to the a/p component. In the images you can see the same pipe before and after kiln striking the Orange Elvis.
TAG's Honey Badger is a nice, non-reactive transparent amber, perfect for honey bee themes. Its what you might call a WYSIWYG color, meaning What You See Is What You Get. Not atmosphere dependent but prefers to be worked in a cooler, softer flame. The high concentration of colorants in this glass can promote boiling if you work it too hot and too fast.
The Darth Badger is a non-reactive reddish amber on "the dark side." A darker, more saturated version of the Honey Badger, the Darth is very nice in applications where you want to use an amber very thin and still show amber, or where you just want a darker and richer shade. It is highly saturated with colorants, however, and will boil if heated too fast. Non-reactive and works in any atmosphere, but prefers to be worked higher up in a bushy soft flame.
Fade to Black is a unique striking color that has the ability to flow through shades of black, blue, green, and white as the glass is flame struck. This is a refined version of their earlier experimental batches, and this recipe is the most colorful, stable and compatible yet. This is an advanced color, and there are some guidelines and recommended working practices that will help you bring out the colorful strikes and reduce compatibility issues. You can find complete working tips in the working tips section on our webpage.
A milky blue-green, it fills part of the spectrum between the new Blue Slyme and regular Slyme. Like anything in the Slyme family, finished work can range from opaque to translucent to transparent in the same piece from the same rod. It has the milky strike you know and love but it's more teal than the original. It can thin to transparent very easily, especially when you put it over clear, or you can use it thicker for a more milky seafoam aqua green. Keeps a bit more of its color under clear encasement, especially where thicker - though it is mostly a ghostly white like regular Slyme in thin honeycombs. You will want to use a bushy neutral-to-slightly reducing flame with Sea Slyme.
Finished work can range from opaque to translucent to transparent in the same piece from the same rod of color; the milky strike that gives so much visual depth; and the rich color where the milk strike is burned away. Unlike the regular Slyme, the Blue Slyme keeps more of its color under clear encasement. But the biggest difference between the new Blue Slyme and regular green Slyme is the flame - you will want to use a bushy NEUTRAL flame instead of a lot of reduction. Like most colors in the Slyme family, this glass is a little bit soft, meaning the COE is a little bit high, maybe a point, point and a half. This is the same as Slyme, Dense Slyme 3, Satin Slyme and Pink Slyme.
finished work can range from opaque to translucent to transparent in the same piece from the same rod of color; the milky strike that gives so much visual depth; and the rich color where the milk strike is burned away. Unlike the regular Sl But the biggest difference between the new Dark Blue Slyme and regular green Slyme is the flame -- you will want to use a slightly reducing to neutral flame. Like most colors in the Slyme family, this glass is a little bit soft, meaning the
When TAG made its first foray into the ultraviolet glass field, they picked a color that wasn't everywhere already: blue. Blu-V is a clear glass that looks bright blue under UV tube or LED lights. It does have a few air bubbles. Customers report the glass works smooth in the flame, doesn't boil, and has a good COE. They also say it can be pulled down and maintain decent effects.
This is an eye-catching mix of their Blue Stardust and Blu-V recipes. This glass takes a light blue shade and aventurine sparkle from TAG Blue Stardust, and takes a strong blue UV reaction (UVR) from TAG Blu-V. The result is a beautiful UVR color that looks amazing in all types of light. When hit with a UV light, this color has a deep blue glow that pairs very nicely with Pink Proton. Atomic Stardust is a highly stable, smooth working color, and likes an oxidized to neutral flame.
This color is a transparent version of Sea Slyme, and in thicker applications, near reheated areas, and when the color is used under clear, a subtle blue milk strike will appear. In thinner and hotter applications this color will stay transparent and green. Tropical Green is a very smooth working color that bends, pulls, and coils easily. The color is also stable in all flame environments, and will retain its clarity after it is worked. Tropical green is a dynamic color that you can use as a pure transparent green, or bring out its shades of blue to add another dimension in your work.
Phaze is a CFL shifting color that falls between the Purple of Parallax and the pink of Syzygy. Under Fluorescent light this color reflects a bright magenta or under natural light it will shift to a light champagne. A smooth working and flame tolerant color that like a neutral flame environment.
COE 33. Blackjack is Paul Trautman's new improvement on the old Northstar Sable which he created years ago. This easy-striking brown/black works very smoothly. When blown out thin it is a rich earthy brown.
A Reactive Sparkle that Resembles Heavy Blue Stardust, Gives a Rich Green Sparkle Base Color, Like the Shooting Star This Color Will Flame Strike and Kiln Strike during a Regular 1050 Anneal Cycle. TAG Recommends to Avoid High Temperature Kiln Cycles Due to the Aventurine. Safe to Implode.
Silver Saturated Sparkle with a Base Color Tends More Towards the Dark Pink/Purple Tones. Highly Reactive, Flame Strikes, the Strike will Deepen in the Kiln at 1050. Avoid hot Garaging and avoid High Temperature Kiln Strikes due To the Aventurine. This Color has Been Imploded in Small Marbles with Success.
Pink Proton is a UV reactive (UVR) color that glows a bright coral pink when hit with a UV light. In sunlight this color is a transparent and slightly off clear, while UV wavelengths light the glass up like a pink neon sign. Pink Proton is slightly stiff, easy to work in the flame, and highly stable and compatible with other colors. This color looks great as the feature on a piece, or as a flashy accent for other colors.