Dark Red Elvis is a Darker Version of the Self Striking Medium Elvis. It is Very Saturated and works well for a Red in Thin Stringers and Thin Blown Work. Dark Red Elvis Self Strikes as it Cools, But Will Get a Bit Darker in The Kiln. Dark Elvis will Strike in a Neutral to Oxidizing Atmospher, at a Slightly Lower Temperature than Most Rubies.
One of the most unusual colors in the boro palette, Slyme can range from transparent to translucent to a milky semi-opaque, depending on how you work it. Work cooler to keep Slyme more opaque, with a soft reducing flame. This also prevents reboil and scumming. Goes transparent under higher heat, but can develop a ghostly milky green haze. Slyme is known to have a slightly higher COE, but works in nearly any application. Especially at the start, you will want to USE A REDUCING FLAME WITH SLYME for best results! You can switch to a bushy neutral flame once it is up to temp. If you are getting scum or boil, consider lowering the pressure.
Dense Slyme is a Less Transparent Slyme. For Applications When You Want a Milkier Less Transparent Look. In Vac-Stacks, When Pulled Down, Dense Slyme will Look Like Slyme. Dense Slyme Can Range from Translucent to Milky Semi-Opaque, Depending on How You Work it. Work Cooler to Keep the More Opaque Color. This Also Prevents Reboil and Scumming. Always Work in a Reducing Flame, Escpecially in the Beginning When the Rods/Tubes are Cold. If Scumming Appears, Use Less Oxy.
Kiwi is a Bright Opaque Lime Green, But is Lighter When Encased. These Candy Colors Like a Soft Envelope Flame. These are Not Boily, but Air Rushing Out Can Produce a Similar Result. Remixing This Color in The Flame is Recommended and/or Working it Slowly to Allow for the Occasional Air Bubbles To Escape. The Candy Colors Do Have A Slightly Higher COE. So Please Test Your Application.
The opaque Candy colors, like Pink Cadillac, prefer a soft, enveloping flame. While they are not really boily, they do have some air in them which can mimic boil, especially when heated hard and fast. For those of you on sharp and forceful torches in particular we suggest warming in the upper flame before working slowly and allowing the occasional larger air bubbles to escape as you work. While many people have great success with these colors, the opaque Candy color line is known to have a slightly higher COE; please test in your application. Laying over clear and then sculpting is NOT recommended.
COE 33. New TAG Wisteria is far smoother than the earlier batches. This is a very pretty opaque blueish-purple glass: WYSIWYG. Rods are slightly rough, but as you can see in the image, they smooth right out when heated. Work in any atmosph
This is a transparent aventurine sapphire blue with big, glittery dichro-like sparkles. Great for layering. The usual cautions against long, hot garaging technically apply since this is an aventurine color, however it is highly stable in implosions, encasements, and virtually any application.
This glass is a very densely saturated aventurine with large, dichro-like sparkles. Mighty Moss may be safely imploded into marbles, within reason, meaning you sould limit the time you "garage" your work, do not go above 1050 in the anneal as short a time as you can for the size of the piece. Not sensitive to flame atmosphere, but reduction should be avoided on aventurines before implosion.
TAG's Honey Badger is a nice, non-reactive transparent amber, perfect for honey bee themes. Its what you might call a WYSIWYG color, meaning What You See Is What You Get. Not atmosphere dependent but prefers to be worked in a cooler, softer flame. The high concentration of colorants in this glass can promote boiling if you work it too hot and too fast.
A Reactive Sparkle that Resembles Heavy Blue Stardust, Gives a Rich Green Sparkle Base Color, Like the Shooting Star This Color Will Flame Strike and Kiln Strike during a Regular 1050 Anneal Cycle. TAG Recommends to Avoid High Temperature Kiln Cycles Due to the Aventurine. Safe to Implode.
A milky blue-green, it fills part of the spectrum between the new Blue Slyme and regular Slyme. Like anything in the Slyme family, finished work can range from opaque to translucent to transparent in the same piece from the same rod. It has the milky strike you know and love but it's more teal than the original. It can thin to transparent very easily, especially when you put it over clear, or you can use it thicker for a more milky seafoam aqua green. Keeps a bit more of its color under clear encasement, especially where thicker - though it is mostly a ghostly white like regular Slyme in thin honeycombs. You will want to use a bushy neutral-to-slightly reducing flame with Sea Slyme.
Finished work can range from opaque to translucent to transparent in the same piece from the same rod of color; the milky strike that gives so much visual depth; and the rich color where the milk strike is burned away. Unlike the regular Slyme, the Blue Slyme keeps more of its color under clear encasement. But the biggest difference between the new Blue Slyme and regular green Slyme is the flame - you will want to use a bushy NEUTRAL flame instead of a lot of reduction. Like most colors in the Slyme family, this glass is a little bit soft, meaning the COE is a little bit high, maybe a point, point and a half. This is the same as Slyme, Dense Slyme 3, Satin Slyme and Pink Slyme.
Pink Proton is a UV Reactive Color That Glows a Bright Coral Pink When Hit with a UV Light. In the Sunlight this Color is an Off Clear. Pink Proton is Slightly Stiff, but Easy to Work in The Flame and is Highly Stable and Compatiblle with Other Colors. Looks Great as A Feature or as accents for Other Colors.
A stronger variant on kiln striking mai tai, an amber purple glass that also has lots of pinks and purples and hardly any amber, strikes quickly and easily in the flame, very pink over white in particular.